HANOI 2 - VIETNAM

Here are some more photographs from Hanoi to finish off the last two posts.

The original Tran Quoc pagoda was built in the 6th century and is considered the oldest in Vietnam. It was founded on the bank of the Red River by King Ly Nam De who named it Khai Quoc (National Founder). Much later, it was moved to its present site beside Hanoi’s Ho Tay (West) Lake during the reign of King Le Kinh Tong (1600-1618) and renamed Tran Quoc (National Defence). The current building is the result of major renovations in 1815.

Waiting to enter the temple precinct of the Tran Quoc pagoda.

The term "pagoda" is from Portuguese "pagode", perhaps based on Persian "butkada" - ‘temple of idols,’ influenced by Prakrit "bhagodī" - ‘divine’.

The altar in the temple adjacent to the Tran Quoc pagoda.

The loads carried on bicycles around the city are simply astounding!

Thousands upon thousands of lotus blossoms (Nelumbo nucifera) are offered daily in temples. Here the buds are being prepared for sale.

We went to see the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, which is open from 8:00-11:00 am Tuesdays-Thursdays and at weekends. Be prepared for extremely long queues and a long wait!

The large mausoleum where Ho Chi Minh's embalmed body lies in a bier inside a glass case. Visitors must file through the room without stopping. No photography is allowed, and all personal possessions must be left outside.

The building was erected with assistance from the USSR, and is a good example of Soviet architecture of the period. It’s guarded by an honour guard of Vietnamese soldiers in immaculate white dress uniforms who march around the building at regular intervals. Ho Chi Minh left directions for his cremation in his will. However, at the time of his death in 1969, the year after the Tet Offensive, the war was still raging and morale was low. Communist Party chiefs recognised his iconic status and overrode his wishes.

The One Pillar Pagoda was built originally in 1049 during the Ly dynasty and is located on the west side of the original capital of Thang Long. According to the legend, King Ly Thai To dreamt that Goddess Quan Am sat on a lotus leaf and promised him a son. Soon after the king married a peasant girl and she bore him a son. The king became so overwhelmingly happy that he constructed a wooden pagoda on a stilt in a lake so that the goddess of Mercy- Quan Am, could be venerated and the long life of his son could be assured. He named the pagoda “Dien Huu”, which means happiness and good luck. According to a theory, the pagoda was built in a style so as to resemble a lotus emerging out of the water.

The pagoda is both small and striking. It is an extremely popular attraction and place of pilgrimage.

 The altar inside the One Pillar Pagoda.

 Young devotees lighting incense and praying outside the One Pillar Pagoda.

The Ho Chi Minh Museum preserves everything memorable related to the great revolutionist, Ho Chi Minh. The Museum consists of five extensive floors and was inaugurated on 2nd September, 1990, celebrating the 100th birthday occasion of the beloved Vietnamese President.

The area around the Ho Chi Minh Museum and Mausoleum is full of extensive gardens, parks, temples and other attractions, so definitely an area of the city worth visiting.

The Hanoi Citadel complex is in the process of being released by the Army - two buildings are now accessible, and more are to follow. Originally known as the Dai La Citadel, King Ly Thai To renamed it Thang Long Citadel (“Ascending Dragon” – the old name of Hanoi) in 1010. Over many centuries various monarchs moved the capital to other places and their successors moved it back again to Hanoi often modifying and rebuilding elements of the Citadel several times. In 1888 the defeated Nguyen Dynasty surrendered the Hanoi Citadel to the French colonialists. Hanoi became a colonial city for 66 years until the French were expelled in 1954. During their occupancy, the colonists broke down the walls of Citadel and destroyed most of the buildings inside. The old Watchtower remains, and offers an excellent view of the whole complex.

The Army Museum is located next to the Citadel and offers a vivid and fascinating history of the Vietnam War under the leadership of Vietnam’s communist party and of president Ho Chi Minh. The history of Vietnam’s struggle for peace, independence and freedom of the nation is captured in the thousands of exhibits of the museum.

The museum displays a wide collection of military waste including a MIG fighter, anti-aircraft missiles, tanks, and remarkable heap of wreckage from a US B52 bomber and French prop driven plane that were both blast in the Hanoi area and the tank that exploded through the gates in Saigon during the battle for liberation.

One of the back streets of Hanoi.

A barber plying his trade on the sidewalk in an improvised salon!

Maison Centrale, or to be precise, Hoa Lo Prison (Hoa Lo in Vietnamese means "fiery furnace"), is the infamous "Hanoi Hilton", as what the American prisoners-of-war nicknamed it, a sarcastic reference to the upmarket Hilton hotel chain. Its most famous inmate was probably Douglas Pete Peterson, the first US ambassador to the Socialist Republic of Vietnam, and John McCain, the US pilot who later became a senator. The name Maison Centrale comes from the French, where the term Maison Centrale usually refers to a prison back in France.

Maison Centrale housed Vietnamese political prisoners during their struggle for independence during the colonial period. In 1997 most of the complex was demolished to give away for development, but only parts of the old prison was preserved and turned to museum. It is an amazing experience seeing how the inmates used to live, how they were tortured and executed.

The original guillotine used in the executions of condemned prisoners.

A memorial to all the victims of torture and execution in the prison.

One of a series of plaques depicting the wretched life of hardship and torture inside the prison.

The National Cancer Institute is the leading hospital specialising in cancer treatment of Vietnam, which was established on the existing Indochina Radium Institute, the most long-standing unit for cancer control in the region (since 1923), established by the French in a more benevolent mood.

St. Joseph’s Cathedral is built in European neo-Gothic style and dominates a small square in the heart of Hanoi’s tourist area facing a street of restaurants and boutiques. It was one of the first buildings erected by the French colonists, and was completed in 1886 – many of the materials and most of the craftspeople were imported from France. Most of the stained glass windows are original and good examples of the craft. Unfortunately it was closed when we visited.

The Hanoi Opera House rises magnificently at the end of the Trang Tien Street. Modelled on the Parisian Palais Garnier, and built by the French colonists in 1911 it was renovated in the late 1990s. The façade of the building is colonial French with pillars and balconies overlooking the city centre. Various performances of art - local, international, traditional, modern are staged at this 900-seat opera house, professionally managed by a solid team of various experts with the Vietnamese symphonies playing quite regularly. 

A timeless picture captured from the taxi, on our way to the airport.
Rice paddy and lone cyclist...

HANOI - VIETNAM

Hanoi in Vietnam has an estimated population of about 6.5 million and is the capital and second-largest city of Vietnam. From 1010 until 1802, it was the most important political centre of Vietnam. Hanoi served as the capital of French Indochina from 1902 to 1954. From 1954 to 1976, it was the capital of North Vietnam.  The city is located on the right bank of the Red River. Hanoi is located at 1,760 km north of Ho Chi Minh City.  October 2010 officially marked 1000 years since the establishment of the city. On this occasion, Hanoi was named by Frommer’s travel guide as one of the world’s “Top Destinations 2010”, which coincided with our trip there.

This is the view out onto the lake and the City, from our Hotel, the Sofitel Plaza.

Looking towards the east, with the Red River in the background.

The presence of water in the form of rivers, lakes and canals is widespread in the City.

Many of the locals of Hanoi spend most of their work and leisure time right out there on the sidewalks and streets of their city. 

A typical street, seen while walking to the City centre.

A sidewalk butcher's shop. Small animals may be slaughtered right there in the street (as was the case with the chicken we saw being killed).

A game of Chinese chess always generates a lot of interest and many passers-by will stop, squat there and watch with great involvement.

One is frequently reminded that this is a Communist country.

A monument to the heroic fallen. Public gardens and parks are extremely well looked after, often by very elderly workers, as is seen here.

Bicycles have been largely replaced by scooters and motorbikes, while cars are still relatively few in number.

Dong Xuan Market, or "Cho Dong Xuan", is the oldest and largest market in Hanoi. It is located at Dong Xuan Street, at the end of Hang Dao Street.

Inside the Dong Xuan Market.

Getting closer to the City centre, there are more tourists, more traffic, more noise and commotion.

The Huc Bridge on Sword Lake ("Hồ Hoàn Kiếm"), one of the major scenic spots in the city, serving as a focal point for its public life.

The Huc Bridge (meaning Morning Sunlight Bridge) leads to Jade Island on which the Ngoc Son Temple (Jade Mountain Temple) stands. The temple was erected in the 18th century. It honours the 13-century military leader Tran Hung Dao who distinguished himself in the fight against the Yuan Dynasty, Van Xuong, a scholar, and Nguyen Van Sieu, a Confucian master and famous writer in charge of repairs made to the temple in 1864.

Outside the Jade Mountain Temple.

The altar inside the Jade Mountain Temple.

For westerners' eyes, this image is an iconic one, typifying the mysterious orient!

Numerous picturesque vistas along the shores of the lake allow good photo opportunities!

Turtle Tower (Tháp Rùa) in the middle of Sword Lake.

Văn Miếu (Temple of Literature) is a temple of Confucius. Although several Văn Miếu can be found throughout Vietnam, the most prominent and famous is that situated in the city of Hanoi, which temple also functioned as Vietnam's first university.

The inner courtyard of the Temple of Literature and buildings of the temple complex.

The Temple of Literature is popular with students at all levels of education. They devoutly pray for academic success and make offerings of food, flowers and incense.

 

The image of Confucius on the main altar of the Temple of Literature.

The Vietnam Fine Arts Museum, conveniently located across the road from the Temple of Literature.

"Spring" (1961), a beautiful coloured woodcut by Nguyen Thu in the Vietnam Fine Arts Museum.

"Hamlet No 9" (1975), a gouache by Dang Chung in the Vietnam Fine Arts Museum.

A bust of President Ho by Tran Van Lam in the Vietnam Fine Arts Museum. Many "heroic", "nationalistic" and "chauvinistic" pieces of art are found in the museum, however, there is also a wealth of antique art, contemporary pieces and some examples of magnificent lacquerwork.

Although taxis are very cheap in Hanoi, walking is the best way to get to places and one sees some amazing things when on foot.

A good hotel is a must when staying in Hanoi and we were very pleased with the Sofitel, having a club room there. Although the hotel is not as central in the city as many others, it is quiet and has magnificent views over the large West lake.